Climb
the highest summit of Monte Rosa; Dufourspitze
4634m. It's the highest mountain in Switzerland,
and the second highest in all of the Alps
after Mont Blanc. We offer a week long programme
to attempt this peak, as your acclimatisation
and flexibility for selecting a weather window
are crucial.
To
keep the itinerary flexibilty, the guiding
ratio is 1:2 for four days, after the initial glacier training day, so you can take advantage
of the best days for the summit weather window.
The climb itself takes three days, so there
are two spare days for training and acclimatisation
routes before the ascent.
This
week would appeal to those who have previously
done Mont Blanc, or who seek a quieter alternative
to it. Whilst the Swiss route is 'only' graded
as a PD+ (Peu Difficile) on the Alpine grading
system, it is a tough physical effort and
the summit ridge is fairly exposed and more
technical than the grade suggests. If approaching
from the Italian side, the technical grade
is AD (Assez Difficile).
Dufourspitze
was named after Swiss army General Henri Dufour,
who was the co-founder of the Red Cross, and
it was first climbed by british climbers with
their guides. The summit ridge is the most
challenging part of the whole climb, and ropes
are fixed in places during the summer months.
If
you seek a course in this region, that focuses
on climbing more summits, you should consider
the trip in the south of the Monte Rosa massif,
on the Swiss-Italian border. The itinerary
is called the Spaghetti Tour, and you could
climb up to six 4000m peaks. For this itinerary, click
here.
Dates: these
are listed in the column on the right, and
they show the live availability from our secure
online booking system. When you book online,
you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine
Information Booklet, course specific kit list
and invoice.
Brief
Course Itinerary
Sun
Travel
to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in followed
by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There
is time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings
are over by 19:00 and the Chamonix hosts accompany
the group to
pre-dinner drinks to answer any queries.
Night in Chamonix.
Mon
First acclimatisation and training day, normally heading up the Aiguille du Midi (maybe with Panoramic to Helbronner) for a route such as Aiguilles Marbrees or Aiguille d'Entreves. One of your most important
days of the course in terms of your acclimatisation and skills development. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info.
Night in Chamonix.
Tue
Your final training day before setting off for
Dufourspitze. Set off for a training
route, designed to help you acclimatise
and develop technical skills. There are many options
to choose from, depending on your previous climbing
experience, but popular objectives include; Mont
Blanc du Tacul, Aiguille du Toule, Cosmiques Arete, or Pointe Lachenal. Guiding
ratio 1:2 (max). Night in Chamonix.
Dufourspitze
- Swiss (normal) route
Dufourspitze
- Italian route
Wed
Drive
over to the Zermatt region from Chamonix, and catch
the Gornergrat train up to Riffelberg. Here you
start the three hour ascent to the Monte Rosa hut,
which is accessed via the Grenz glacier. This day
is a bit of a rest day, as the main ascent the next
day involves 1900m of climbing, so it's a good idea
to rest the legs today! Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night spent in mountain
hut.
Drive
through the Mont Blanc road tunnel to Italy, and
to the Alagna or Gressoney region, where you catch
the cable car to Indren, then walk the glacier trail
for the short approach to the Gnifetti hut. Another
option is to continue to the Margherita hut, which
is the highest mountain hut in the Alps. Stay for
the night in one of the huts. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max). Night spent in mountain
hut.
Thu
A
very early Alpine start to head upwards towards
Silbersattel. This lower section is non technical,
but ascended at a steady pace, until you pass 4000m,
where you veer right to reach the foot of the Dufourspitze
summit ridge. The incline soon steepens over snow
and ice slopes to 40 degrees, which terminates at
a rock step which leads to the summit. The rock
ridge is graded III, and after reaching the top,
you return by the same route to the hut. Guiding
ratio 1:2 (max). Night spent in mountain hut.
A
very early Alpine start from Gnifetti to head upwards
over Signalkuppe, on which the Margherita hut is
situated, or start from this hut if you spent the
previous night there. Descend to the exposed col
below Dufourspitze, and ascend the mixed terrain
upwards to the summit. This route is technically
not too difficult, but is relenting and very exposed.
Return from the summit via the same route, to normally
stay the night in the Margherita (or Gnifetti) hut
on the way down. Guiding
ratio 1:1 (max). Night spent in mountain hut.
Fri
The
day is spent descending from the hut to Zermatt,
and returning to Chamonix.
For very fit groups, this day can allow another
contingency weather window, for an ascent and complete
descent of the mountain, if the summit was not possible
on the previous day. In the evening there are optional
drinks and a celebratory meal. Guiding ratio 1:2
(max). Night in Chamonix.
Day
spent descending from the hut to Indren, and from
either hut, there is the opportunity to take in
some other 4000m peaks e.g. Pyramide Vincent on
the descent, before returning to Chamonix.
For fit groups, this day can allow another weather
window, for an ascent and descent of the mountain.
In the evening there are optional drinks and a meal.
Guiding ratio 1:1 (max). Night in Chamonix.
Sat
Breakfast
then the accommodation check out is by 10:00. Most
arrange their airport transfers to leave around
this time, to catch a flight from Geneva about midday. Depart for home.
ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionally
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline
itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity
that you will attempt.
Course
Prices
Standard
course
5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total
£2195
Live
availability
Click
on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide
for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics
& briefings, 3) Self-catered accommodation in Chamonix
(inc. beddings & towels), 4) Up to two nights half
board in mountain hut (inc. costs for guides), 5) Pre
course information booklet, 6) Equipment discount voucher
for UK shop, 7) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction
Booklet, 8) Road transport in Chamonix valley including
road transport to / from the Monte Rosa region, 10) Evening
technical instruction on nights in Chamonix.
Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3)
Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals
in valley, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels
/ restaurants, 4) Cable cars and uplift for you and your
guide (approx £100), 5) Sunday pre-dinner drinks
& Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 6) Activities
insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Notes:
This course assumes 1:2 guiding on Dufourspitze. If you wish to ascend the Italian Cresta Rey option, note that the guiding ratio is 1:1 for this route, so you must upgrade to a 1:1 week if you wish to ascend this route, rather than the normal route which is 1:2.
Course
upgrade options
Many clients on this
trip consider upgrading with one or more of
the following course additions...
Private
room
Big
5 Alpine
extensions
Technical
kit rental
Acclimatise
weekend
Upgrade
to single from
£300-£500 in addition to
standard course price,
depending on week.
Extend by 2 days after
to ascend one of the
Big 5 Alpine peaks as
an extra summit.
Rent all technical kit
for a week. Full Alpine
Bundle costs you just
£100 for the week.
Saturday
night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £70.
Standard
course accommodation - normally clients are based
in self-catered flats (details),
so take a look, and decide if it's for you. For
more luxury, contact us for quotes in higher standard
apartments, or hotels of any standard required.
If you have / source your own course accommodation,
or we cannot provide an upgrade, the standard course
price has a £100pp reduction applied on your
invoice.
Current
course availability
Course Dates Dufourspitze
[ 2 ] 29 Jun - 5 Jul 2025
[ 2 ] 7 - 13 Jul 2025
[ 2 ] 13 - 19 Jul 2025
[ 2 ] 27 Jul - 2 Aug 2025
[ 2 ] 3 - 9 Aug 2025
[ 2 ] 17 - 23 Aug 2025
[ 2 ] 31 Aug - 6 Sep 2025
NOTE:
This trip has scheduled
dates, but if there are two who
are booking together, it can be
operated on any date you wish
Scheduled
courses
Price: £2195Book
online Bespoke
course? If your ideal date is showing
as full on the list above, get in contact,
as we also offer private 1:2 and 1:1
trips on any date during the season, subject to availability.
The 1:1 week price is £3149 for the Normal Route, or £3549 for 1:1 via the Cresta Rey.
A
really fun week, and thanks for all
your efforts in changing the hut bookings,
so we could take the best days for the
weather. The view from the summit was
worth all the effort. Thanks Anthony
T , Dufourspitze
A
big thanks from Will and I for another
top week in the Alps. See you soon for
more adventures next year Michelle
M , Dufourspitze
Harder
than Mont Blanc, but more fun and a
bigger challenge for me Sophie
P , Dufourspitze
Testimonials
Press
& media
Films
& videos
Photo
gallery
Location
data for this trip
The
trips meet in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps,
at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a
90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Time
Difference
GMT +1hr
Local
Currency
€ & CHF
Travel
from UK
1hr flight
Preparing
for the course
If
you are worried about acclimatisation, we recommend that
you book on an Acclimatisation
Weekend before
your course. to help you get acclimatised earlier, leaving
you with more summiting weather windows for the peaks. Better still, we recommend you arrive a day or two early, and go and stay at altitude in the Torino hut 3375m for the days and night(s) at altitude. Extra acclimatisation makes all the difference!
Upgrade
to 3 nights huts
Some
people booking together may prefer to adapt this itinerary
to set off from Chamonix on Tuesday with the guide, and
spend the next 3 nights in huts, via the Swiss or Italian
routes. This option is available if pre-booked, and the
course price supplement is £200pp (based on 2 clients
opting for this).
View
full course equipment list,
with examples of kit, click
here
Why
choose our trips?
See
our Alpine blog, by clicking on the Word-press logo
to the right.
Itinerary
flexibility to allow you to take full advantage
of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your
summit chances.
Our
prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect
you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately.
There
is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the
weather, conditions, and your experience.
Any
further questions?
A
key part of choosing a company is being able to come and
talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor
face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know
our clients value speaking to real people, getting open
and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are
British, and our office and outdoor store is based in
Windermere in the English Lake District.
Get
in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee
to discuss your course in person with a trip
advisor.
