Winter
Matterhorn ascent 2022  |
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| Course
overview |
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To
ascend the Matterhorn in winter is a special
achievement for any mountaineer, and it takes
the most experienced our mountain guides to
take you safely to the summit. |
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When
researching this mountain, have a read of
our mountain
focus page, which details
the routes up the Matterhorn, and gives more
detailed advice on preparation and the history
of the mountain. |
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You
need excellent stamina and fitness and a high
level of previous mountaineering skill, Alpine
D/TD, rock climbs at VI, Scottish Grade V
ice. It should appeal to those who have attended
a 1:1 Advanced or 'Ultimate Ice' course or
those who have climbed major peaks such as
Denali or Ama Dablam. |
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In
winter conditions we generally use the Hornli
ridge of the Matterhorn. This is because it
has a hut at the base (Hornli Hut) and a hut
at two thirds height; the Solvay Refuge. These
huts provide much needed shelter from the
snow and wind on a winter ascent The descent
is usually by the Hornli Arete or even East
Face. |
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This
is true mountaineering, and your stamina and
resolve are pushed to the limits as you ascend
through the deep snow carrying your belongings
with you. It is normal to be the only group
on the mountain during the winter. Note we only offer this trip in December, January, and April each year. In February and March there is always too much snow to make a realistic attempt on the mountain. |
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Those
who have reached the summit of the Matterhorn
in winter have cast iron determination, skill
and desire. It is a very special experience,
reserved for the few. If this note seems a
deterant for you, then please consider another
course, though if these comments present a
challenge, please contact us for further information. If you haven't climbed with us before, it's essential to e-mail us with details of the following questions; |
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 Current climbing levels in past 12 months only, listing total days, best grades, and key route names.
Summary of climbing experience, in past decade, with detail of major achievements, guides used, etc.
Fitness training in the past 6 months, and an outline of your last month of training in more detail. |
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Once we have seen this, we can discuss with you the next steps, and if we can accept your application straight away, or we will advise if we think you should consider any other training beforehand. |
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On
demand: if
no scheduled course dates that suit are showing
in the column on the right, we can still operate
a course on demand for just one person booking,
on most weeks in December, January and April, arriving on a Sunday and departing
Saturday. |
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Dates: these
are listed in the column on the right, and
they show the live availability from our secure
online booking system. When you book online,
you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine
Information Booklet, course specific kit list
and invoice. |
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Course
Photo Gallery
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Brief
Course Itinerary |
| Sun |
Travel
to Zermatt to arrive at your choice of accommodation. There is a scheduled course safety and itinerary briefing (or via Zoom). There
is time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings
over by 19:00 and you are free for the evening to head out into town for dinner & drinks. Night in Zermatt (not inc). |
| Mon |
Meet your guide in the morning, for kit checks, to finalise plans for the week. This
is your first of 5 days of 1:1 guiding, for to
increase your acclimatisation on an Alpine route
in winter conditions (e.g. Breithorn half traverse / Castor / Pollux). Night in hut (e.g. Plateau Rosa) on half board included for you and guide. |
| Tue |
Descend to Zermatt to and to buy any supplies for winter room nights, and then take cable car to Schwartzee, and ascend to the Hornli mountain
hut. When there is a lot of snow this can take a
long time, and you sleep in the winter room of the
Hornlihutte to rest before the climb. |
| Wed |
An
early start from the Hornli hut to ascend to the
Solvay bivouac hut (located between the two steepest
sections on the route). Night often spent in the Solvay hut, which is basic and small, but ideally located high on the Matterhorn. Here
you are poised for your summit bid the next day. |
| Thu |
Ascent from the Solvay hut to the summit of the
Matterhorn. Descend back to the Solvay hut, or all the way back down to the Hornlihutte, for the
night. This is a long summit day on the most exposed and
highest section of the Matterhorn, all the way to the top and the long descent. |
| Fri |
Complete
the descent from the Solvay hut to the Hornlihutte, or from there back to Schwartzee,
then return to Zermatt. After the last five days of climbing you
have earnt yourself a few beers! Once you are back in town, the guiding is over, and they depart for home. Night in Zermatt (not inc). |
| Sat |
Breakfast
then most Zermatt accommodation check out is by 10:00. Most
arrange their return train to Geneva for around this time for
a flight from there about midday. |
| ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant,
so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans.
If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered.
Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to
the types of route / activity that you will attempt. |
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Course
Photo Gallery
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| Course
Prices |
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1:1
ratio course |
5
full days IFMGA guiding, 1:1 max ratio
7 days holiday in total, Sunday-Saturday |
£3999 |
Live
availability |
Click
on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
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Secure
online booking system |
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| Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide
for five days Monday to Friday, including their travel to Zermatt, 2) Logistics support from the Icicle team, 3)
Equipment discount voucher for our Windermere shop,
4) Pre course information booklet, 5) Free 36 page technical
Course Instruction Booklet, 6) Monday night half board in mountain hut, or B&B in Zermatt, for you and guide, 7) Winter room fees and cooking facilities for Hornli / Solvay nights on Matterhorn, for you and guide, for Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday nights. |
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| Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Zermatt, 2) Cable cars for you and guide in Zermatt,
3) Accommodation in Zermatt for you on Sunday & Friday nights, 4) Equipment hire, 5) Food and supplies
for self-catering for you and your guide on the Matterhorn (c.£20pppn),
6) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening
meals, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels /
restaurants, 7) Activities insurance,
& excess baggage charges. |
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Current
course availability
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| Testimonials |
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| Press
& media |
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| Films
& videos |
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| Photo
gallery |
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| Location
data for this trip |
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| The
trips are based in the Zermatt valley in the Swiss Alps,
at the foot of the Matterhorn. It is easily accessed via by train from Geneva airport. |
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Time
Difference
GMT +1hr |
Local
Currency
CHF Swiss |
Travel
from UK
1hr flight |
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| Suggested
reading and kit |
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BD Vector helmet
£74.99 |
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Matterhorn 1:25k map
£10.99 |
Grivel
Air Tech Evo
£130.00 |
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View
full course equipment list,
with examples of kit, click
here |
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| Why
choose our trips? |
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See
our Alpine blog, by clicking on the Word-press logo
to the right. |
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Itinerary
flexibility to allow you to take full advantage
of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your
summit chances. |
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Our
prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect
you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately. |
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There
is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the
weather, conditions, and your experience. |
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| Any further questions? |
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A key part
of choosing a company is being able to come and talk about
your plans with an experienced course advisor face to
face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know our clients
value speaking to real people, getting open and honest
advice. The vast majority of our clients are British,
and our office and outdoor store is based in Windermere
in the English Lake District.
 
Get in
contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee
to discuss your course in person with a trip advisor.
Many people opt for this service, and it is an integral
part of what we offer, as we are keen to ensure that you
are prepared as possible, and that you select a course
that is suitable for you. It makes it easier and more
enjoyable for you and us, if you are on the right trip. |
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