|
|
In
the UK we have a very different grading system to the
Alps, so many people are very unsure what grade of routes
that they could safely attempt in the Alps. This article
attempt to unravel some of the shroud of mystery from
the grading systems, and also to explain what the various
notations in Alpine guidebooks mean. Please do not attempt
to use any of the grade tables to do direct translations
between the UK and the Alps, because it doesn't work.
For example, if you can climb a section of vertical ice
in the UK, the table indicates that you are climbing an
Alpine ED grade, when in fact you might only be capable
of an Alpine PD grade. Use this table with care. Ultimately
there is no substitute for going to the Alps, and to start
climbing routes to build up your experience. Just remember
that there is no rush, and that the routes will still
be there when you have built up enough experience to tackle
them safely. |
|
|
|
Alpine
Grades are selected from many factors, including the
technical difficulty, commitment, protection, and condition.
Needless to say, each of these factors are influenced
by many more subsections, as shown below;
Technical
Difficulty; the technical grade of the crux
pitch, or the climb as a whole. The technical difficulties
always have by far the greatest influence on the grade
a climb is given.
Commitment / Seriousness;
the length of the route, the exposure you have to objective
dangers (avalanche, rockfall, etc), the quality of the
ice or rock, and the degree of remoteness of the route
(especially with regards to potential retreat or rescue).
On long or multi day climbs the possibility of benightment
or getting caught in a storm or running out of food
can also influence the grade.
Protection; this only really
affects the grade when the climb is hard to protect,
such as having lots of loose rock. Equally on some popular
climbs all the belays are equiped, which makes it easy
to retreat if necessary. If there is generally good
protection, but say one spare section, this will usually
be noted in the guidebook.
Conditions;
the effects of altitude or prevailing bad conditions
for a route generally give it a slightly easier grading
than in perfect conditions at sea level.
It is normal practice for the first person who ascends
a route, to declare a grade for it, and for second ascensionists
to confirm (or adjust) the grade. All routes change
over time, and whilst this is evident over a few hours
on an ice climb, it is equally true for a rock climb
where holds break and get polished. Therefore treat
all grades with a big pinch of salt, as they are massively
subjective, but do not ignore them altogether. I would
be bancrupt if I had given a penny to everyone I had
heard saying "the guidebook said it was a grade
III, but in these conditons it was at least a V+",
but it is not often you hear the quote the other way
around, effectively downgrading a route. To me this
is a classic example of an obsession with grades, that
many climbers have. Grades are useful as advice, and
for training, but to not become too focused on them
or you will loose track of why you enjoy climbing. The
best advice I ever got was "there are two grades;
possible, and not-possible".
Alpine Grades
Given that grading routes is such a subjective task,
do not be surprised to see the same route in different
guidebooks with a different grade. Below is a table
of the grading system that you will encounter when reading
Alpine guidebooks. The letters (PD, AD, etc) can be
applied to any type of climb, whether rock, ice or snow.
I have given some examples of popular routes (mainly
in the Mont Blanc massif) in each category, and an outline
of the inclination of snow / ice, and the rock grades.
Both of these are explained in more detail below the
table.
|
|
Grade
|
UIAA
Rock
|
Snow
/ Ice
|
F
|
Facile
(Easy)
|
I
|
Walk
Up
|
Dômes
de Miages traverse F/PD
Mont Blanc, Grands Mulets F/PD
Aiguille du Tour, East Face Normal Route F+/PD-
Grandes Montets East Face F+/PD-
|
PD
|
Peu
Difficile (Little Difficult)
|
II
|
35°/45°
|
Petite
Aiguille Verte, Ordinary Route F+/PD- (one move
III)
Mont Blanc, Goûter Ridge PD- (II,40°)
Mont Blanc du Tacul, Ordinary Route (NW Face)
PD-
Mont Blanc, Three Mont Blanc -route PD+ (>45°)
|
AD
|
Assez
Difficile (Quite Difficult)
|
III
|
40°/55°
|
Aiguille
du Midi, Arete des Cosmiques PD+/AD (IV/Aid)
Matterhorn, Hörnligrat AD- (III)
Dent du Géant, Normal Route (SW Face) AD
(III;V)
Aiguille Verte, Whymper Couloir AD+ (55°)
|
D
|
Difficile
(Difficult)
|
IV-V
|
50°/70°
|
Mont
Blanc, Brenva Spur D-
Tour Ronde, North Face D- (52°)
Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chere Couloir D-/D (75°,
Scottish 4)
Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur D+ (V,55°) |
TD
|
Très
Difficile (Very Difficult)
|
V+-IV
|
65°/80°
|
Aiguille
du Plan, North Face Direct TD- (IV,60°)
Mont Maudit, Cretier Route TD- (IV+)
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, South Ridge TD (V+,A0;VI)
Petit Dru, Bonatti Pillar TD+ (V+,A1) |
ED
|
Extrêment
Difficile (Extremely Difficult)
|
VI+
- VIII-/aid
|
-
90°
|
Mont
Blanc, Peuterey Integral TD+/ED1
Grandes Jorasses, Croz Spur TD+/ED1 (V+,60°)
Mont Blanc, Central Pillar of Frêney ED1 (VI,A1;VIII/VIII+)
Petit Dru, American Direct ED1 |
|
|
Rock
Climbing Grades
Almost every country in the world has its own rock grading
system, and some (like the UK) have several. It would
take years to explain them all, but here are some pointers
to watch out for. Some grading systems are only concerned
with the technical difficulty of overcoming the hardest
move on a climb (irrespective of if it is one foot of
the ground or 1000 feet up), whilst others consider the
overall sustained grade of the route, or the ability to
protect the route in event of a fall. It is fairly meaningless
to produce a table to "translate" grades from
one country to another. As far as the rock grades in the
Alps, it is normal for routes in the valley to get stiffer
grades than in the mountains, even if the climbs were
identical. In the guidebooks you will see arabic numbers
(5+, 6, etc) used for valley crag grades, and their exact
equivalent in roman numerals (V+, VII, etc) for mountain
rock routes. If you have only every climbed valley routes
before, then you should only consider mountain routes
a few levels under your normal grade. For example if you
climb grade 6 routes in the valley, a mountain IV+ will
be quite enough for a first experience of altitude Alpine
climbing. In no way is this meant to patronise, but you
cannot compare toproping a sport (bolted) route at sea
level wearing rock shoes, with a route at altitude, wearing
heavier clothing and maybe mountain boots, as well as
carrying a rucksack.
Ice
Climbing Grades
Because ice is extremely ever changing medium highly depending
on weather conditions, rating ice climbs is very difficult
a task. Thus any ice climbing grades are for reference
and getting the idea of the climb only, they are substantially
less trustworthy than rock grades.
WI
Water Ice, hard ice formed from water.
MI Mountain Ice, softer porous ice formed from snow
under high pressure.
M Mixed, both rock and ice are encountered on the route.
Like
is the case with rock grading systems, there are also
several different systems to grade ice climbs. Most
systems are closely related to each other and take into
consideration solely technical difficulty. US systems
uses WI or MI to indicate the type of ice followed by
the number to indicate technical difficulty. In Central
Europe system is the same completed with Roman number
(I-VI) indicating objective hazards (seracs, rock fall,
etc.) to be encountered on the route. Finnish system
is the same without consideration of the objective hazards.
Scottish system (also used in Norway) uses Roman numbers
to indicate technical difficulty of the route.
Grade
Approximate Description (to give rough idea)
1 Low-angle water ice of 40 to 50 degrees or a long
moderate snow climb requiring basic level of technical
expertise.
2 Low-angle water ice with short bulges up to 60°.
3 Steeper water ice on 50 to 60 degrees. Possibly bulges
of 70°-90°. Ice is thick and secure protection
easy to place.
4 Short vertical columns, interspersed with rests. On
50 to 60 degree ice fairly sustained climbing. Ice is
thick and of good quality. Secure protection is easy
to place.
5 Generally multipitch ice climbing with sustained difficulties
and/or strenuous vertical columns with little or no
rest possible. Ice is still mostly of good quality.
6 Multipitch routes with heightened degree of seriousness.
Long vertical sections and very sustained difficulties.
Ice is often rotten with more or less dubious possibilities
for protection. Mixed.
7 Full pitch of thin vertical or overhanging ice of
dubious quality.
8 Hardest ice climbing ever done.
Aid
Climbing Grades
Aid
climbing grades indicates mainly the difficulty and
quality of protection placements. Minor (upward) changes
in difficulty can be marked with +-sign. Aid climbing
grade are subject to change because of developing equipment
and wear of the rock.
Grade
Description
A0 Fixed pieces of protection are already in place.
Possibly A0 climb can involve the climber placing slings
to climb some passages.
A1 Pitons, hooks, wedges etc. are relatively easy to
put in place. Occasional use of a ladder. Does not yet
require much force and virtually every placement is
perfectly capable of holding a fall. A1 climbs often
get climbed "French free", meaning that the
climber uses protection to aid progress by grabbing
them.
A2 Protection placements are fairly good, but placing
the pieces may not be without difficulties. Between
good placements there may be some less perfect placements.
A3 A3 is hard aid. Normally leading a pitch takes several
hours and there are potentially falls of 20-25 meters
length, but without danger of grounding or severe injury.
Active testing of soundness of placement is required.
A4 Serious aid. Fall potential up to 35 meters with
bad landings. Placements hold only body weight.
A5 Placements hold only body weight for entire pitch
with no solid protection. A leader fall at the top of
an A5 pitch means a 100-meter fall with possibly lethal
consequences.
|
|
|
|