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Winter Matterhorn ascent 2018
On the summit of the Matterhorn
Course overview
To ascend the Matterhorn in winter is a special achievement for any mountaineer, and it takes the most ecperienced our mountain guides to take you safely to the summit.
When researching this mountain, have a read of our mountain focus page, which details the routes up the Matterhorn, and gives more detailed advice on preparation and the history of the mountain.
You need excellent stamina and fitness and a high level of previous mountaineering skill, Alpine D/TD, rock climbs at VI, Scottish Grade V ice. It should appeal to those who have attended a 1:1 Advanced or 'Ultimate Ice' course or those who have climbed major peaks such as Denali or Ama Dablam.
In winter conditions we always use the Hornli ridge of the Matterhorn. This is because it has a hut at the base (Hornli Hut) and a hut at two thirds height; the Solvay Refuge. These huts provide much needed shelter from the snow and wind on a winter ascent The descent is usually by the Hornli Arete or even East Face.
This is true mountaineering, and your stamina and resolve are pushed to the limits as you ascend through the deep snow carrying your belongings with you. It is normal to be the only group on the mountain during the winter.
Those who have reached the summit of the Matterhorn in winter have cast iron determination, skill and desire. It is a very special experience, reserved for the few. If this note seems a deterant for you, then please consider another course, though if these comments present a challenge, please contact us for further information.
On demand: if no scheduled course dates that suit are showing in the column on the right, we can still operate a course on demand for just one person booking, on most weeks from late January until the end of April, arriving Sunday and departing Saturday.
Dates: these are listed in the column on the right, and they show the live availability from our secure online booking system. When you book online, you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine Information Booklet, course specific kit list and invoice.


Course Photo Gallery


Brief Course Itinerary
Sun Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings are over by 20:00 and the Chamonix hosts accompany the group to pre-dinner drinks to answer any queries. Night in Chamonix.
Mon This is your first of five days of 1:1 guiding, for to increase your acclimatisation on an Alpine route in winter conditions such as Contamine Grisole, or Goulotte Cosmiques. Night in Chamonix.
Tue Travel over to Zermatt and ascend to the Hornli mountain hut. When there is a lot of snow this can take a long time, and you sleep in the winter room of the Hornlihutte to rest before the climb.
Wed An early start from the Hornli hut to ascend to the Solvay bivouac hut (located between the two steepest sections on the route). Night in Solvay hut. Here you are poised for your summit bid.
Thu Ascent from the Solvay hut to the summit of the Matterhorn. Descend back to the Solvay hut for the night. This is a long day on the most exposed and highest section of the Matterhorn route.
Fri Complete the descent from the Solvay hut to the Hornli hut, then return to Zermatt. Return to Chamonix for the night. After the last five days of climbing you have earnt yourself a few beers!
Sat Breakfast then the accommodation check out is by 10:00. Most arrange their transfers for around this time for a flight from Geneva about midday.
ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity that you will attempt.


Course Photo Gallery

Course Prices
1:1 ratio course
5 full days IFMGA guiding, 1:1 max ratio
7 days holiday in total, Sunday-Saturday
£2499
Live availability
Click on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
Latest Availability
Secure online booking system
Standard Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five days, 2) Transport costs to and from Tasch, 3) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings, 4) Six nights B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. bedding & towels), 5) Equipment discount voucher for UK shops, 6) Pre course information booklet, 7) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 8) Road transport in Chamonix valley, 9) Logistics support and evening instruction.
Exclusions: 1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Cable cars (approx £60) and guide cable cars & train in Zermatt, 3) Transport / tunnel ticket outside Chamonix valley (except to / from Tasch), 4) Equipment hire, 5) Food and supplies for self-catering in hut / on mountain for you amnd guide, 6) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 7) Sunday pre-dinner drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 8) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Upgrade options
Avalanche Skills Training
£75 (throughout the season)
To learn avalanche prediction, reutschblocks and use of avalanche transceivers. Course is available on several weekends throughout the winter, details.
Current course availability

Course Dates
Winter Matterhorn
  • [ 1 ] 21 - 27 Jan 2018
  • [ 1 ] 25 Feb - 3 Mar 2018
NOTE: This trip has scheduled
dates, but it can be operated on
any date you wish. Let us know
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Price: £2499 Book online

Alternative courses
Winter Alpine Intro course
Chamonix Technical Ice
Winter Alpine Classics

Ascent of the Matterhorn

Client feedback


The most intense feeling of success that I can ever hope to experience. I guess there is nothing else I can say to top that

John L , Winter Matterhorn
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Location data for this trip
The trips are based in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps, at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a 90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Time Difference
GMT +1hr
Local Currency
€ Euros
Travel from UK
1hr flight
Suggested reading and kit
View full course equipment list, with examples of kit, click here
Why choose our trips?
See our Alpine blog, by clicking on the Word-press logo to the right.
Icicle Blog
Itinerary flexibility to allow you to take full advantage of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your summit chances.
Our prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately.
There is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the weather, conditions, and your experience.
Any further questions?
A key part of choosing a company is being able to come and talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know our clients value speaking to real people, getting open and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are British, and our office and outdoor store is based in Windermere in the English Lake District.



Get in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee to discuss your course in person with a trip advisor. Many people opt for this service, and it is an integral part of what we offer, as we are keen to ensure that you are prepared as possible, and that you select a course that is suitable for you. It makes it easier and more enjoyable for you and us, if you are on the right trip.
 


 
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