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Eiger 3970m summit traverse 2017
Ascent via the Mittellegi Aréte to summit, descent via South ridge
Icicle guides and clients on  the Mitelleggi  approaching the summit of the Eiger
Course overview

The Eiger is one of the most famous and feared mountains in the world, due to the renowned difficulty of the routes on it's North face or 'Nordwand'. For those looking to climb this great mountain by a less dangerous method, there are a choice of routes up the mountain, namely the Mittillegi Ridge and the West Arete. The Mittillegi Ridge is our primary choice, as it is objectively safer and has a longer season in condition.

Many famous Alpine summits can be climbed with a low amount of skill or talent. This is not so for the Eiger, and inexperienced peak baggers should beware that their chances of success will be low. To consider yourself for this course, you should be very fit, have good footwork on steep ground (including on rock with crampons), and also have good ropework skills.
This course should also appeal to those who have attended a Classics, Mont Blanc Summits or Matterhorn course. If you have significant previous rock climbing experience, but not much crampon or alpine experience, this can be developed over the week of the course as of greater importance are your ropework, ability with exposure and balance / stability on your crampons.
This course is run on a 1:2 Guiding ratio for the first three days, so the Guide can assess and develop your skills and abilities before attempting the Eiger (1:1 ratio), to move at your speed.
One night in the Mittellegi mountain hut is included in the price. To keep the price low for you, and give you the greatest route flexibility, your cable cars in Chamonix and Grindelwald are not included in the course price, and when you go to Grindelwald you must pay for the Guide cable car (budget on around £120 total).
Dates: these are listed in the column on the right, and they show the live availability from our secure online booking system. When you book online, you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine Information Booklet, course specific kit list and invoice.


Brief Course Itinerary
Sun Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in and course / itinerary briefings. There is time for kit checks or rental. Briefings are over by 19:00 so you can go out for food. Night in Chamonix.
Mon Altitude Route: Either climb Chappelle de la Gliere, Aiguille de L'M or Petit Charmoz. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Return to Chamonix for the night.
Tue Altitude Route: Either climb Aiguille d'Entreves or the Marbrée Arete. Possibility of staying in a hut for the night, such as the Torino, for an Alpine start the next day. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max).
Wed Either another day route such as the Chere Couloir, or an Alpine start from the hut for a route such as the Dent du Geant or the Rochefort Arete. Return to Chamonix for the night. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max).
Thu Drive over to Grindelwald. Ascend the Jungfraujoch railway, spend time training on glacier. Traverse to Mittillegi Mountain Hut for the night. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max).
Fri Alpine start for the ascent of the Mittillegi ridge of the Eiger. After you reach the summit, you then descend the normal route to Monchjoch, then traverse the glacier to Jungfraujoch to catch the Eiger train which descends to Grindelwald, from where you return to Chamonix, where you spend the final night of your holiday. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max).
Sat Breakfast then the accommodation check out is by 10:00. Most arrange their airport transfers to leave around this time, to catch a flight from Geneva about midday. Depart for home.
ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity that you will attempt.

Course Prices
Standard course
5 days guiding, 7 days holiday in total £1699
Live availability
Click on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
Latest Availability
Secure online booking system
Standard Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings, 3) B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels), 4) One night half board in mountain hut on the Eiger (inc. costs for guides), 5) Pre course information booklet, 6) Equipment discount voucher for UK shops, 7) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 8) Road transport in Chamonix valley including road transport to / from the Oberland region, 10) Evening technical instruction / briefing sessions on nights in Chamonix.
Exclusions: 1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 4) Cable cars and uplift for you and your guide (cable cars for guide included in Chamonix), 5) Optional second night in a hut during the training days, on a half board basis for you and your guide, 6) Sunday pre-dinner drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 7) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Notes: Have you thought of upgrading to a 1:1 course throughout? Some clients prefer this strategy to provide even more flexibility during the week, and to allow them to move on all routes, at a more tailored pace. One key advantage is that the Eiger itself could even be climbed over a three day period, with two nights in huts on the mountain (n.b. only one night is included). The 1:1 guiding ratio for the five days, with the same other inclusions as the standard course, costs £2249.
Course upgrade options
Many clients on this trip consider upgrading with one or more of the following course additions...
 
Private
room
Matterhorn
extension
Half
board
Acclimatise
weekend
  Upgrade from shared to
single from £150 in
addition to course price,
depending on week.
Two day extension; 1:1
for £999, to ascend via
the Hornli Arete or the
Italian (Lion) ridge.
Upgrade from B&B to
have 3 course evening
meals in Chamonix for
5 nights for £99pp.
Saturday night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £50.
  Click for details Click for details Click for details Click for details
Icicle guide on the Mitilleggi Arête of the Eiger
Current course availability

Course Dates
Eiger Mittileggi
  • [ 0 ] 20 - 26 Aug 2017
  • [ 0 ] 27 Aug - 2 Sep 2017
  • [ 0 ] 3 - 9 Sep 2017
  • [ 0 ] 8 - 14 Jul 2018
  • [ 0 ] 15 - 21 Jul 2018
  • [ 0 ] 22 - 28 Jul 2018
  • [ 0 ] 29 Jul - 4 Aug 2018
  • [ 0 ] 5 Aug - 11 Jul 2018
  • [ 0 ] 12 - 18 Aug 2018
  • [ 0 ] 19 - 25 Aug 2018
  • [ 0 ] 26 Aug - 1 Sep 2018
  • [ 0 ] 2 - 8 Sep 2018
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Price: £1699 Book online

Alternative courses
Mont Blanc Summit
Matterhorn Ascent
Mt Blanc+Eiger+Matterhorn

Client feedback


Climbing the Mitilleggi Arête was awesome, and my Guide made me feel safe

Stuart Wallace , Eiger


I knew it was going to be exposed, but the summit ridge will stay in my mind for a very long time! Thank you so much

Sam Ford , Eiger

Thanks to Matt for guiding me and keeping me safe all week, and to your Chamonix team for sorting everything for me when my baggage was delayed 24 hours

Mark Timms , Eiger
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Location data for this trip
The trips start in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps, at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a 90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Time Difference
GMT +1hr
Local Currency
€ Euros
Travel from UK
1hr flight
Free resources
Equipment - summit day kit list...
We send a course specific equipment list to all those booking on our courses, but due to the popularity of this course, we outline a typical packing list for the summit day in the list below.
Basic clothing
- Light coloured long sleeve wicking layer
- Schoeller / soft shell climbing trousers
- Mid layer fleece jacket / gillet
- Fleece hat and gloves, and sunhat / cap
- B3 leather / plastic boots, and gaiters
Equipment
- Harness, helmet, ice axe (without leash)
- 12 point crampons and anti-balling plates
- 1 x 120cm Sling, 1 x karabiner, 1 x prussic
- Belay device for abseils (if required)
- Head torch (LED style is lightest type)
Altitude gear
- Synthetic or down insulation jacket
- Goggles in case of high wind
- Neoprane face mask in case of wind
- Thick waterproof over gloves
- Windproof over trousers (eg PacLite)
General kit
- Close fitting sun glasses (Factor 4 for snow)
- Pocket snacks for summit day (eg Haribos)
- Water bottle (bladder type may freeze)
- Rucksack (up to 35 litres max is ideal)
- Basic blister kit, Aspirin, suncream
Preparation - altitude & training...
An ascent of the Eiger should not be underestimated, and you should arrive for this course in good physical condition as the climb will probably be the greatest physical exertion of your life. Please don't ignore this issue... We highly recommend that you read our training page (click here) for details.
If you are worried about acclimatisation, we recommend that you book on an Acclimatisation Weekend before your course. to help you get acclimatised earlier, leaving you with more summiting weather windows for the Eiger.
Suggested reading and kit
View full course equipment list, with examples of kit, click here
Why choose our trips?
See our Eiger blog, by clicking on the Word-press logo to the right.
Icicle Blog
Itinerary flexibility to allow you to take full advantage of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your summit chances.
Our prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately.
There is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the weather, conditions, and your experience.
Any further questions?
A key part of choosing a company is being able to come and talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know our clients value speaking to real people, getting open and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are British, and our office and outdoor store is based in Windermere in the English Lake District. Get in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee to discuss your course in person with a trip advisor.
 


 
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